Lødingen - Sommarøya

Lødingen - Sommarøya

Day 43 14/08/2018

I got on the water at Lødingen. This wasn't so easy. I had to climb down the rocks to get to the water which wasn't so easy with my kayak and gear. I think I went up and down six times; and I'm no rock climber so it was some warm up.

Eventually I'm safe in my kayak. I planned to get on the water at its lowest. Easier with the kayak as there was some mud at low water but mostly to paddle with the tide through Tjelsundet where I followed the north coast.

I didn't stop for lunch as I wanted to stay in the flow. But it was luxury to sit in the flow and make progress while I ate my sandwiches.

I was starting o get tired after five hours of paddling and soon being high water it was time to start looking for a tent spot.

All of a sudden, me paddling in my own world; Teo cars came past with kayaks on the roof. Beeping and waving. I paddle to shore and it was Kirsti and Trine who I had met at the Arctic women's playground symposium. They had seen I was in the area and had come looking for me. It was lovely to see some friendly faces and welcoming the offer of a shower, dinner and a bed.

They soon had my kayak on the car and me and all my things inside. I think I was stunned it all just happened while I'm standing there in misbelief.

I had a lovely evening sight seeing around Harstad and lovely company chatting about all sorts.

Thank you ladies for coming to find me! Really one of the biggest highlights of my trip!

Day 44 15/08/2018

I had stayed the night with Kirsti and had decided to take a relaxing morning. We went for a walk up Audfjell and I learned some history and tales about the area. Very spectacular views.

I then joined Kirsti for the evening paddle with the club. It was lovely to paddle with people. Lovely evening and social paddle around litje and store Rogla.

Day 45 16/08/2018

After another lovely evening with Kirsti but it was time to get back on the water. She kindly drove me to the ferry where I had decide to catch the ferry and get on the water at Sørrolnes. Skipping the crossing from Harstad.

I got on the water at low water expecting to have the stream with me. I had head winds which were slowing me down. And once out of the wind the paddling was very slow. I had lunch at Hamnvikbut no good camp spots so I decided to continue.

I stopped eventually at Kråkrøhamn and went to the nearby house to ask if I could camp. No problem. Arvid the man I had asked kindly invited me in for a cuppa. Was lovely to have company after a hard days paddling.

Day 46 17/08/2018

I had a lovely send off from Arvid who had come down to wave me off.

It was wet and foggy but no wind to start the day. I get on the water, my body feeling tired; I now start to look forward to reaching Tromsø.

I paddle along the coast in the mist and as I got to Mjøsundbtua Arvid was there again to give me a wave. He had said he would keep an eye out on his way to the shop. Motivating to have someone cheer me along.

On the other side of the bridge the wind picked up but it wasn't long before I got into Dyrøysundet where I had the wind and water in my favor.

I got on land at Dyrôybrua where the sun came out to dry all my stuff.

I had made camp on the beach but as high water was creeping in so was the water getting close to the opening of my tent. In the end I had to move.

Day 47 18/08/2018

I started the day with a sleep in which was relaxing. Low water was at 13:00 so there was no rush for catching the flood.

I met a few locals who were interested in talking about my trip and telling me about different things that the community do in the area.

I slowly got on the water. Southerly winds and sun. It was beautiful paddling Solbergfjorden.

I crossed over to Nordhamnodden and decided to cross again to Finnsnes. There hadn't been any traffic all day. Then there I a, right in the middle of Finnfjorden looking through the middle of a catamaran. I took a few seconds to think which way might it be going and decided to make a dash for the direction of Finnsnes and it passed behind me. Just getting out of the shipping lane the fast boat going in the other direction passed swell. Obviously I couldn't have picked a better time to cross.

I got on land at Finsness but didn't find much to pitch my tent so I found a spot on the jetty.

Jan Erik popped by to say hello. We worked together a few years ago at UWC. Was lovely to have a catch up.

Day 48 19/08/2018

I woke up after a good night sleep on the jetty. And again had a slow start while the sun was shining.

Paddling was fairly flat and calm. Nothing too exciting. Tried to find the flow to get the most out of the day. Any little help is a bonus.

I had lunch at Gibstad and continued to Storviknrset. The end was in sight!

Day 49 20/08/2018

Being so close to the end I was excited to finish. I woke up at one in the morning and couldn't get back to sleep.

I had planned to be on the water at 0400 so in the end I got up and was on the water at 03:00.

I originally wanted to follow Senje to Hekkingen lighthouse and cross to Sommarøya from there. But the weather forecast was strong northerly winds at 08:00. So I decided to take the shortest route.

I crossed over Malangen following the coast of Brenholmen and over to Sommarøya.

The conditions were flat calm and not another sole in sight. It did hammer down with rain though.

I paddled with a smile and happy to reach my destination.

After a few hours sleep and relaxing day I packed my bag with stove, dinner and little goodies people had given me along the way. Beer and chocolate and I wanted to climb the hill behind and have victory dinner on the top of Nordkollen. But after scrambling to the top it was wet and windy so I waited until I got back down before opening that beer.

It's a few days until my flight from Tromsø so the adventure hasn't finished yet. Perhaps a few day trips in the area.

Bodø - Lødingen

Bodø - Lødingen

Day 36 07/08/2018

A rest day in Bodø. I woke up early and made my way into the big city. I wanted a good coffee and kebab. And yes nothing opens until 10. So I wandered around half hour and found myself having Burger King for breakfast.

Brian met me for a coffee in Melkebaren which is recommended if you are ever in Bodø. And I sat for some time to write my blog and postcards.

In the evening I met Cathrine and she took me for coffee and a short walk to catch up. We were to go to a top where you could see Saltstrumen but we never made it to the top because there was an Elk standing in the footpath. Now that was a reminder I was in Northern Norway.

Brian had some French travellers also staying so I enjoyed a home cooked meal with them.

Day 37 08/08/2018

I got on the water at the clubhouse in Bodø. Wind was forecast easterly but when I got on the water it was headwinds all day.

I paddled between small islands and channels for a break from the wind and found a lovely sandy beach for lunch, the sun was shining so it was nice to relax.

I pushed on further north against the wind to be surprised by a sea eagle swooping over me, luckily he must not have been too hungry.

I found a nice camp spot just over the water on an island from Kjerringøy. But now in the land of flies so I quickly got into my tent. The forecast was rain and it rained!

Day 38 09/08/2018

There had been a weather warning so I woke up and double checked. The winds were going to pick up to a storm from 13:00-20:00 from the south. With a 15km crossing ahead I decided to stay on land.

The island I camped on was about twenty meters from the mainland. So I paddled across before the wind picked up. I enjoyed the luxury of the guest Marina and watched out the window to make sure my tent didn't blow away.

First official bad weather day. Not bad.

Day 39 10/08/2018

The winds had been generally less in the light and winds were forecast southerly until 07:00. So I managed to get on the water for 04:30 and finish the crossing by 07:00. Not much boat traffic at this time either.

I stopped for lunch at Norskotvika and started chatting to a lady who lived there. Water sports enthusiast herself she had paddled over to Svolvær on A Stand Up Paddle board! 11 hrs that's impressive. She had now invested in a pedalo to perhaps take on the same challenge.

Winds had turned north as expected but I carried on to Holkestad where I found a lovely camp spot on the beach looking north west with a view of Lofoten in the background.

Day 40 11/08/2018

Southerly winds were forecast with a storm coming in at 18:00. I took a look over the water and it looked fine so I head out.

What was forecast southerly winds turned out to be northerly for the first part of the day. I didn't think I was going to be getting far. But I push on.

I was paddling into a fjord, taking the sheltered route so hoping for less winds as I got further I. And yes it dropped off.

I made a long diagonal crossing of the fjord to Skutvik with the wind in the back. It was foggy and the rain was bouncing off the water. But I hadn't seen a boat in hours so I thought I would be safe enough.

I get to Skutvik and where I wanted to camp looked private, so I just paddled on. Now going out of the fjord. Being aware the wind was to pick up at 18:00. This section was quite exposed and the first camp spot I found was wet and had no phone signal which I handy for checking the weather.

I look on the map and it was 10km to a small jetty so I carried on to Buvåg where there was a small hamlet. I passed a group of kayakers camping but being aware of the wind and not feeling too social I didn't stop to say hi.

Lucky enough j got to land and tent up before the wind started.

But when the wind picked up it was howling and the rain was crashing down. I needed to move my tent to a more sheltered spot, so I managed to drag it with the wind between two boathouses. Shame I forgot to take a picture.

Day 41 12/08/2018

Another bad weather day. There was heavy rainfall and wind to pick up from the north later in the day. So I decided not to take the chance and stay on land.

I went for a walk in the morning after the rain had stopped. It was possible to walk to the next headland so I did so to see what was ahead.

I then spent the rest of the day relaxing and reading a book. Bit boring really.

Day 42 13/08/2018

The wind was still northerly but it had dropped a little. The rain had stopped. So I thought worst case I could turn back. So I packed up my kayak and got on the water.

The first part of the morning the wind and waves were hitting me from the side. My body was starting to feel tired and sore.

My helmet went in the water off my back deck; tied on it almost pulled me over with the waves crashing into it. But a quick reaction with a low brace and I was fine.

On the next headland was a big lighthouse and small village where I stopped for lunch. Being only 12:00 I decided to carry on and complete the other 25km to Bognes where I was going to take the ferry to Lødingen.

It was a 20km crossing against a northerly wind which didn't sound like too much fun. So I decided to get on the ferry.

Brønnøysund to Bodø

Brønnøysund to Bodø

Day 28 30/07/2018

After Tobias leaving for Bergen I also took the Hutigruten but north to Helgelandskysten. The coast of Norway every speaks about. It is the area I wanted to paddle the most and north to Tromsø.

So I took the Hutigruten from Kristiandsund to Brønnøysund. 22 hrs. Which is a long time to be on a boat. I was quite tired as it left in the middle of the night and landed in the middle of the night. But I managed to find a comfy corner to have a sleep.

I don't think a cruising holiday is for me but I managed to find the use of the sauna and shower on board so that was a bonus.

Landing in Brønnøsund at 0200 in the morning it was then a bit of a walk to the guest marina where I could get on the water. Luckily it wasn't raining so a few trips back and forth with my kit and kayak eventually I got some sleep.

Day 29 31/07/2018

Paddling out from Brønnøysund now solo and in an area I have not been before. Both exciting and nervous. I really enjoy doing long trips as a team but paddling solo is enjoyable too.

I packed my kayak alongside the jetty and was on the water for 10. Looking at my compass I was looking a bit confused. North wasn't where I expected. So I even got out my phone to double check where I was before then realizing there was of course steel in the jetty.

So within a few hours of paddling alone I had managed to paddle a few kilometers down a dead end; at least being two you can double check on the navigation, being alone well it's only you to blame. So I was missing Tobias’ navigation skills and needed to switch the brain on.

I had winds in the back a paddle with lovely scenery and good weather, found a great campspot at Jektåsen for sunbathing.

As I was sleeping on the rocks I could hear rustling in the bushes. So eventually I went to investigate and herd of cows, one having a sniff of my cockpit. Sorry cow bit too small for you.

Day 30 01/08/2018

The beach dried out quite a lot so to spare me the carry I decided to have an early morning start and get on at high tide. 0300. I had predicted stream against me but the weather forecast was southerly winds.

There were a few crossing so it was nice to be on the water early and avoid the boat traffic. The first crossing went smoothly. The second I had read on the map there was an island I the middle, but after reaching the other side thinking it was the island I was in luck, it was just numbers on the chart and I was in fact all the way over.

The third crossing on the other hand, winds started to pick up. A paddle leach would have been a smart thing to have. I looked behind me and the clouds think and dark. Thunder and lightning was closing in quickly. But I made it to land before the sky lit up and the heavens opened.

I got to sandnessjøen by 1130. Luckily in the afternoon the winds picked up even more so I was happy to be snuggled up in my tent.

Day 31 02/08/2018

I had a relaxing morning in Sandnessjøen waiting for my parcel of food to arrive. I had a look around and picked up my parcel sent by Anne Dorthea. Thanks you! I still don't know how she got a postcard in there to me, the package was all packed up and it looked the same when I got it, magic.

Rain was predicted by 1700 so plan was to get in the kayak by then. And I was. Northerly winds as predicted.

After a few hours of paddling it was time to land and set up camp. The rain didn't look like it was going to stop. Me trying to be smart I wanted to keep the inner tent dry. So I lay it all out and try to put up the tent under the outer sheet. Then when I opened the door I hadn't got the inner tent door on the right side. So it all got wet on my reassemble.

Then I pack things that need to be dry in the front hatch. So I get the boat as close to the tent as I can to start unloading to find a few liters of water in there. Oh dear. A wet night.

Day 32 03/08/2018

There was a weather window between 0700-0900 to get packed and on theater so I took it.

First crossing of the day I had a little scare from a motor boat. He was just driving straight at me. So I wave my paddle and keep waving, luckily he changed his course. Feeling a little vulnerable I was happy to get to the other side.

After following land for a bit it was time for the next crossing. 8km but luckily not a busy shipping lane. I didn't see another boat. Perfect.

The the fog started to come in. So for the final crossing back to the main land I had my dinner while I was waiting for the fog to lift and eventually made a dash for it where I continued north to Tonnes.

Day 33 04/08/2018

I woke up and felt well rested. I was looking forward to crossing the arctic circle. I wasn't sure what time the Hurtigruten was passing but luckily it went past as I was getting on the water. At least one less boat to avoid.

I crossed over to Rangsundøya and officially in the arctic circle. Some small channels I wanted to pass through and north onto Rødøy. I had seen there was a cafe. So after three hours of paddling sadly it was shut.

The wind was pushing me gently from behind. But the weather was looking a bit meaner on the horizon with fog coming in.

I wanted to eventually cross back over to the mainland, but how so I make it short and when.

I decided to paddle in the direction of a small island which was gradually bringing me to the middle of the fjord to then make my crossing shorter. Then when two headlands lined up it was a 60 degree bearing to cross.

And yes in the middle of the open sea the heavens opened; but I made it over just as a big cruise ship came in sight. I then paddle north to Åmnes where luckily enough sun to dry out my kit.

Day 34 05/08/2018

I checked the weather and rain again. I got packed and on the water. Warm and wet.

Both Hutigruten passed at 0830. That was good I missed them both. I headed north through some small channels which was beautiful before crossing Gåsværfjorden and støttfjorden to Støtt. Time was almost lunch but the weather was clear and if all is in favor keep paddling, so I did. I crossed over to Kunna and rounded the exposed headland. Quite a shallow area and the winds started picking up but it was nice to have some excitement in the water. Wind pushing me along lunch could wait. I had enough snacks in my vest.

I crossed over to Finnes where the scenery was spectacular; very sharp U shaped valley with steep cliffs either side.

Just a bit further I stopped for lunch. even though it was dinner time I wasn't finished for the day. I kept going until I found a lovely camp spot on Andklakken and managed to get my tent up more successfully this time in the rain.

Day 35 06/08/2018

I was awake at 0650 and the water was flat calm so I quickly get my boat packed up and on the water. Northerly winds were predicted and yes as soon as I got on the water the wind picked up.

Luckily it dropped off as I was rounding the north of Sandhornøya.

I found a lovely beach for lunch but I didn't stop for long as I was eager to get over saltfjorden to Bodø.

Just like crossing the road, look, listen, nothing coming, go! 6.5km crossing with headwinds, my favorite. Little scary with all the planes flying over from the military base, they were loud. But I raced over and it went fine. Was happy I got my bearing spot on.

As of the northerly winds I crossed over to hjertøya to get shelter and followed the island east to Kvalvika.

Excellent to be greeted by Brian an old paddle friend I haven't seen in a while. Thanks for the hospitality Brian.

Another surprise was Cathrine a friend and colleague from Bergen saw where I was and as she is now living in Bodø was at the beach in a flash with some sugary treats for me! Thanks Cathrine.