Day 28 30/07/2018
After Tobias leaving for Bergen I also took the Hutigruten but north to Helgelandskysten. The coast of Norway every speaks about. It is the area I wanted to paddle the most and north to Tromsø.
So I took the Hutigruten from Kristiandsund to Brønnøysund. 22 hrs. Which is a long time to be on a boat. I was quite tired as it left in the middle of the night and landed in the middle of the night. But I managed to find a comfy corner to have a sleep.
I don't think a cruising holiday is for me but I managed to find the use of the sauna and shower on board so that was a bonus.
Landing in Brønnøsund at 0200 in the morning it was then a bit of a walk to the guest marina where I could get on the water. Luckily it wasn't raining so a few trips back and forth with my kit and kayak eventually I got some sleep.
Day 29 31/07/2018
Paddling out from Brønnøysund now solo and in an area I have not been before. Both exciting and nervous. I really enjoy doing long trips as a team but paddling solo is enjoyable too.
I packed my kayak alongside the jetty and was on the water for 10. Looking at my compass I was looking a bit confused. North wasn't where I expected. So I even got out my phone to double check where I was before then realizing there was of course steel in the jetty.
So within a few hours of paddling alone I had managed to paddle a few kilometers down a dead end; at least being two you can double check on the navigation, being alone well it's only you to blame. So I was missing Tobias’ navigation skills and needed to switch the brain on.
I had winds in the back a paddle with lovely scenery and good weather, found a great campspot at Jektåsen for sunbathing.
As I was sleeping on the rocks I could hear rustling in the bushes. So eventually I went to investigate and herd of cows, one having a sniff of my cockpit. Sorry cow bit too small for you.
Day 30 01/08/2018
The beach dried out quite a lot so to spare me the carry I decided to have an early morning start and get on at high tide. 0300. I had predicted stream against me but the weather forecast was southerly winds.
There were a few crossing so it was nice to be on the water early and avoid the boat traffic. The first crossing went smoothly. The second I had read on the map there was an island I the middle, but after reaching the other side thinking it was the island I was in luck, it was just numbers on the chart and I was in fact all the way over.
The third crossing on the other hand, winds started to pick up. A paddle leach would have been a smart thing to have. I looked behind me and the clouds think and dark. Thunder and lightning was closing in quickly. But I made it to land before the sky lit up and the heavens opened.
I got to sandnessjøen by 1130. Luckily in the afternoon the winds picked up even more so I was happy to be snuggled up in my tent.
Day 31 02/08/2018
I had a relaxing morning in Sandnessjøen waiting for my parcel of food to arrive. I had a look around and picked up my parcel sent by Anne Dorthea. Thanks you! I still don't know how she got a postcard in there to me, the package was all packed up and it looked the same when I got it, magic.
Rain was predicted by 1700 so plan was to get in the kayak by then. And I was. Northerly winds as predicted.
After a few hours of paddling it was time to land and set up camp. The rain didn't look like it was going to stop. Me trying to be smart I wanted to keep the inner tent dry. So I lay it all out and try to put up the tent under the outer sheet. Then when I opened the door I hadn't got the inner tent door on the right side. So it all got wet on my reassemble.
Then I pack things that need to be dry in the front hatch. So I get the boat as close to the tent as I can to start unloading to find a few liters of water in there. Oh dear. A wet night.
Day 32 03/08/2018
There was a weather window between 0700-0900 to get packed and on theater so I took it.
First crossing of the day I had a little scare from a motor boat. He was just driving straight at me. So I wave my paddle and keep waving, luckily he changed his course. Feeling a little vulnerable I was happy to get to the other side.
After following land for a bit it was time for the next crossing. 8km but luckily not a busy shipping lane. I didn't see another boat. Perfect.
The the fog started to come in. So for the final crossing back to the main land I had my dinner while I was waiting for the fog to lift and eventually made a dash for it where I continued north to Tonnes.
Day 33 04/08/2018
I woke up and felt well rested. I was looking forward to crossing the arctic circle. I wasn't sure what time the Hurtigruten was passing but luckily it went past as I was getting on the water. At least one less boat to avoid.
I crossed over to Rangsundøya and officially in the arctic circle. Some small channels I wanted to pass through and north onto Rødøy. I had seen there was a cafe. So after three hours of paddling sadly it was shut.
The wind was pushing me gently from behind. But the weather was looking a bit meaner on the horizon with fog coming in.
I wanted to eventually cross back over to the mainland, but how so I make it short and when.
I decided to paddle in the direction of a small island which was gradually bringing me to the middle of the fjord to then make my crossing shorter. Then when two headlands lined up it was a 60 degree bearing to cross.
And yes in the middle of the open sea the heavens opened; but I made it over just as a big cruise ship came in sight. I then paddle north to Åmnes where luckily enough sun to dry out my kit.
Day 34 05/08/2018
I checked the weather and rain again. I got packed and on the water. Warm and wet.
Both Hutigruten passed at 0830. That was good I missed them both. I headed north through some small channels which was beautiful before crossing Gåsværfjorden and støttfjorden to Støtt. Time was almost lunch but the weather was clear and if all is in favor keep paddling, so I did. I crossed over to Kunna and rounded the exposed headland. Quite a shallow area and the winds started picking up but it was nice to have some excitement in the water. Wind pushing me along lunch could wait. I had enough snacks in my vest.
I crossed over to Finnes where the scenery was spectacular; very sharp U shaped valley with steep cliffs either side.
Just a bit further I stopped for lunch. even though it was dinner time I wasn't finished for the day. I kept going until I found a lovely camp spot on Andklakken and managed to get my tent up more successfully this time in the rain.
Day 35 06/08/2018
I was awake at 0650 and the water was flat calm so I quickly get my boat packed up and on the water. Northerly winds were predicted and yes as soon as I got on the water the wind picked up.
Luckily it dropped off as I was rounding the north of Sandhornøya.
I found a lovely beach for lunch but I didn't stop for long as I was eager to get over saltfjorden to Bodø.
Just like crossing the road, look, listen, nothing coming, go! 6.5km crossing with headwinds, my favorite. Little scary with all the planes flying over from the military base, they were loud. But I raced over and it went fine. Was happy I got my bearing spot on.
As of the northerly winds I crossed over to hjertøya to get shelter and followed the island east to Kvalvika.
Excellent to be greeted by Brian an old paddle friend I haven't seen in a while. Thanks for the hospitality Brian.
Another surprise was Cathrine a friend and colleague from Bergen saw where I was and as she is now living in Bodø was at the beach in a flash with some sugary treats for me! Thanks Cathrine.
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